To a backbeat of the Fat Back Band and some front row toe-tapping from Karlie Kloss and Ansel Elgort, Tom Ford’s show officially kicked off New York Fashion Week last night at the Park Avenue Armory in Manhattan. Glamour of course led the way at Ford’s autumn / winter 2019 show, but there was a welcome, forward shift in fabric and shape.
Instead of the vampy leather we’ve come to rely on as the backbone of a Ford look, there were neat, fitted wool or velvet jackets. Each was paired with pleat-top trousers in lustrous satin shades of pale blue, dove grey, bronze and plum with turned up ankles and nipped in waists. The effect was a shapely, instantly wearable silhouette, casually deconstructed with soft roll neck sweaters and short, gentlemen’s scarves.
“The thing about luxury goods now is they are so expensive, they have to be potent,” said Ford of his immaculately crafted pieces backstage after his show. “When you buy a jacket it has to be something you can wear with lots of different things in lots of different ways. Women don’t go and buy 10 perfect new outfits each season like they did in the 1950s and 60s, they buy individual pieces.”