Ermenegildo Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori on modernist design and creating a catwalk ‘moment’

Ermenegildo Zegna's Alessandro Sartori on modernist design and creating a catwalk 'moment'

“I went to Brazil to see Niemeyer’s work, and what struck me is that while something might look two-dimensional, it’s actually 3D, 4D, 5D… I feel that’s like my approach to fashion design:I’m interested in creating layers”, says Sartori. The will often home in on the cut of a jacket, creating, for example, a new silhouette between double- and single-breasted; or he will focus on the fabric itself, experimenting with R&D techniques at Zegna’s considerable factory in Trivero, northern Italy.

Now 52, Sartori’s enthusiasm for architecture and design was ignited at a young age; the son of a tailor and a dressmaker, he grew up in the shadow of the Zegna factory. “I remember there was a beautiful magazine called Louis, which had photography of well-dressed men, real characters, and the settings were very graphic, very modern; it combined the architecture with the character of the man,” he says. “I guess that informed me in some way.”

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